Road Trip to Mount Cook

We decided we would take the extra scenic route to Mount Cook via Wanaka and grab a late breakfast there.

The road trip is a feast for your eyes and in some ways a challenge for your nerves. You do have to be careful and ensure you are looking at the road and not losing concentration as NZ roads do need your 110% attention.

Whilst they have beautiful views, the roads are not great. There are plenty of “one way at a time” bridges, almost all of them without traffic lights, just a giveaway / yield sign, sometimes with very little warning just before the bridge starts, and they are on roads with a 100kph limit.

Overtaking / passing lanes are almost unheard of (at least in the areas we have been driving) and lots of winding roads with hairpin turns on the sides of ravines. The road between Queenstown and Cromwell is particularly shocking given the volume of traffic it handles.

This likely sounds harsh, but driving here feels like what driving at home in New South Wales would be like if all the road improvements of the last 40 years never happened. Partly an unfortunate situation of difficult terrain, lower population and smaller economy I would assume.

Bridge outside Wanaka

Like Australia, New Zealand drives on the left. Not an issue for me, as thats my normal. However with lots of tourists from Europe and the US/Canada, left driving combined with roads with little traffic in some sections and lookouts everywhere it can be a deadly combination. Lots of history of drivers exiting a lookout onto the wrong side of the road and crashing head on with a car coming round the next bend. Arrows are painted on the roads everywhere to remind people, and all rental cars have stickers “Drive on left” in them.

Lindis Pass

On the way North to Mount Cook you will go through Lindis Pass, which according to the interwebs is the second highest “State Road” road (National HIghway) in NZ, and the highest in the South Island. At the peak there is a lookout you can climb. I only went part of the way up.

NZ Alpine Lavender

Turning off the State Highway to Mount Cook, the road views turn even more spectacular, and there are lots more one way bridges. About 10km from the turnoff you go past a small Lavender farm, and for $5 a person you can walk through the fields and sit on some strategically placed chairs for pics.

This sounds silly but for $10, this is one of the best things we have done this holiday. The colours and the aroma from the flowers is intense.

Road to Mount Cook

Stunning scenery everywhere
View from our hotel room

Driving in NZ

Of course I hired an EV, and the views from this charger are stunning.

Charging the car in Mount Cook

Double Coffee Day

Managed to fit two coffees in this morning. First was from Drop Cafe, trendy little coffee nook hidden at the back of clothing store. This one was mentioned in the NZ Herald article on great Queenstown coffee locations as well.

It looks like the coffee is severed in an enamel cup, which would have been interesting, however it’s just a ceramic mug that’s been shaped and painted how we expect enamel cups to be.

Drop Cafe

Second coffee was around 11am from the Bathhouse cafe right on the lake at the front of town. The weather today is 100% perfect, clear sunny day, about 21c with a very very slight breeze. We sat here for a while just basking in the glorious sunshine sipping the coffee. Pretty good coffee too.

Bathhouse Cafe

TSS Earnslaw and Dinner

Last night we did a cruise and dinner package on the TSS Earnslaw. You board the boat at 7pm and it takes you across the lake to Walter Peak Restaurant for a buffet BBQ dinner.

TSS Earnslaw

The TSS Earnslaw is a “Twin Screw Steamer” built in 1912 and is still powered by the coal fired steam engine, one of the few remaining coal powered ships in the world.

As Sharon pointed out, 1912 was not a great year for ships, however this one managed to not sink on our journey and we made it back to QT in one piece.

The heat coming from the engine room was quite intense, I certainly wouldn’t want to be tending the furnace for any significant amount of time.

The dinner is quite good, but treat it as an entire experience package, don’t consider it a gourmet dinner.

Queenstown NZ

Approx 12 months ago we decided we would head across the ditch and spend 10 days on the South Island of New Zealand. We are basing ourselves in Queenstown with two overnight stops elsewhere on the island that you will see in future posts. 

I’m somewhat embarrassed that after over 50 revolutions of the sun, I still haven’t visited New Zealand. It’s so close, I have so many wonderful Kiwi friends and colleagues yet had never bothered to get on plane and give the place a visit. I guess It’s something I always thought I’d get to later, well joke is totally on me, I’ve only been here a few hours and I can already see its drop dead gorgeous and amazing. I’ve been missing out. The flight over the mountains and into Queenstown has some eye popping views. We were also blessed with a clear sunny day on arrival.  

A few minutes from landing

The other novelty of visiting NZ after spending the last few holidays in Europe is that it’s only a two hour flight. Take off, quick meal and we are getting ready to land. 

As far as travel days go, we had an amazing one. Home to the airport in about 40 minutes, one of the fastest checkins and security clearances ever in Sydney, less than 15 minutes from walking in the airport to looking for a coffee on the airside of the airport. Coffee was the usual Sydney airport affair, average and eye watering expense.

Took the jet ages to taxi around the airport, they had set flights to take off from the eastern end of the runway. Unfortunately we didn’t fly right over the city, as soon as we took off the pilot pulled an Elon (AKA a hard bank to the right…) and we went straight out to sea and over to NZ.

It was equally good in NZ, about 10 minutes from passport control to getting bags and passing customs. Only slight hitch was we went to the wrong side of the airport to get the hire car.

I spent a good 5 minutes talking pictures of the hire car checking for damage then remembered I’d paid extra for zero excess (walk away) insurance, so that was essentially a waste of time. Airport was only a 10 min drive from the apartment, after checking in we dusted off our Jandals, grabbed our chillybin and headed off to local supermarket to grab some local supplies. Pineapple Lumps are the bomb!

The other bonus of coming to NZ is the exchange is in our favour by roughly 10%, way better than visiting the UK !. Was also checking FB history, exactly a year ago we were in Spain, exactly the opposite side of the planet to NZ.

The lake here is massive, apparently it’s 380m deep. It’s so deep part of it is 70m below sea level.

We had booked dinner at the Stratosfare Restaurant at the top of Bobs Peak, you take the Gondola there. Of course it’s beyond silly cost wise for a buffet dinner (NZ$170 per person), but you are really paying for the view and the upkeep of the Gondola. Great selection of food on offer.

I think Dave Dobbyn was correct, this place really is a slice of heaven.