Sharon’s Secret Food Tour

Sharon covered so much with the food tour she was booked on. It deserved its own complete blog entry.  I asked Sharon if she would write a blurb on the highlights of the tour, so here it is :-

Today I went on a food tour of the Marais district in the 4th Arrondissement. This is one of the things I have most been looking forward to on this trip, especially after hearing from both Dad and Scott how fantastic their tours were. It definitely lived up to expectations!

Met the guide, Christophe, just outside Temple station, named after the Knights Templars. First tasty morsel was consumed- little cabbages (the English translation). Little puffs of choux pastry with sugar- light as a feather and absolutely delicious! On to our first stop- coffee and croissant for breakfast! Discovered that the French can make coffee!! Definitely had my doubts on that after our first trip! Lots of interesting little snippets of information- always look for straight croissants, as these are the ones made with butter. The curved croissants have margarine instead.

Next stop was the boulangerie for that staple of every French household- baguette! Baguettes are an authentic Parisian recipe, and are even called parisians in other parts of the country.

On to a fresh produce market – Le Marche des Enfants Rouge (named after orphans from the orphanage originally on the site) for cheese and wine tasting. The market is the oldest in Paris – 400 years, and still operating on the same site today! We tried 4 different cheeses – Brebis Basque, a soft and creamy sheep’s milk from the Basque Country north of Spain. They can only use the milk of one particular variety of sheep to make this cheese. Just beautiful! Next a goat’s cheese with raisins- very sweet and often served with pineapple?!

Not convinced on that combination! The 3rd cheese was one of the greats of France – Comté. This cheese has been made since the Middle Ages, and had an intense flavour. All perfectly paired with the Loire valley Sauvignon we were drinking with it.

On to the red wine cheeses next. What tasting would be complete without Rocquefort! It is one of those cheeses that you either love or hate- I’m definitely in the former camp!! Intense, creamy and a taste sensation. Paired this with a Cotes du Rhone Syrah Grenache. Grape varieties that we certainly have in Australia, but completely foreign to the Americans on the tour. Makes you realise how lucky we are in the variety of food and drink available to us. Last cheese was a “ super Brie” ( triple cream with a layer of truffle). Gorgeous!! To “change the palate”, little pieces of chocolate eclair. In France, whatever is on the top of the eclair will also be the filling eg chocolate and chocolate or coffee and coffee. No chocolate icing and vanilla custard here! Christophe was absolutely horrified at the thought!

Wandered the streets of Marais a bit more and went past the Picasso museum. Our guide was also an an architect, so the tour was a mixture of food and architecture. Next stop was a brasserie for saucisson ( 2 varieties), pate, cornichons and croque monsieur with cold beer. Definitely welcome, as the beautiful summer weather is still continuing here in Paris. Croque monsieur is like the best ham and cheese toastie you’ve ever tasted- absolutely divine! Moved on to the Pletzl (Yiddish for little square) which is the Jewish neighbourhood of the Marais.

It was “secret food” time! Falafel with tahini! Again, absolutely delicious. There were queues down the street at several of the falafel stores (especially the one which is Lenny Kravitz’s favourite!). Here falafel (and in New York according to the Manhattanites on the tour) is very much considered to be a Jewish food. Very different to home and the local Turkish or Lebanese takeaway. Again, totally spoilt for food in Australia. The falafel was excellent with a beautiful tahini dressing, but have probably had equally good in Australia.

Last stops and it’s time for dessert! First macarons (how can you have a foodie experience in Paris without them!) and then chocolate. To Damyel for macarons – light, crunchy shell and oozing ganache inside. My choices were coconut and lemon, but it was a hard decision- so many delicious flavours. Our final stop was Maison George Larnicol, an absolutely exquisite chocolate shop. Our apartment in Montmartre 2 years ago was across the street from the flagship store, so I knew that this was going to be very special. The scent of chocolate is overpowering when you walk in the door, but in a good way! Truffles, squares, little eggs of all sorts of flavours, and the most exquisite creations in chocolate. They didn’t have the massive sculptures of the Montmartre shop, so I think another visit there might be in order!

Sadly the tour then came to an end. 3 1/2 hours of total absorption in food! One of the best experiences of this trip, and one I would definitely recommend to any one coming to Paris. In the words of Miss Julia Child “Bon appetit”!

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Tour Eiffel, Cafè non.

Sharon and I did two very different tours today. You could say they were chalk and cheese, but in reality it was more iron and cheese. Emma wanted to go and see the Eiffel tower again, so I pre-booked some tickets and took her down there around 12.30pm. Sharon was booked into a Parisian food tour. I did a similar tour last year when I was in Paris for a day, and it would have to be one of the best holiday experiences I’d ever had. As Sharon is a foodie, this was something she had to do as well.

The food tour did not disappoint, Sharon had an awesome day with the group sampling some of the food wonders that Paris and France have to offer. Its just astounding how how good the food is here, even my lunch (which I’ll cover in a minute) was actually pretty good. I’ll do a seperate post on Sharon’s food tour over the next day or so

The only thing that seems to be outside the realm of food goodness here in France is coffee. I’m sure there are a few awesome places here, but I’m yet to find them. Its not something that is on every street corner in the same way it is at home. On our way to the tower I didn’t actually have any coffee, as everything i saw was machine made which I’m not inclined to pay €3-4 if I can avoid it. Even Starbucks was closed early on Sunday, so I just went without. My head was complaining about its lack of caffeine fix a few hours later.

We got to the tower and it only took a few minutes to enter the complex, then only a few minutes more to go through the “pre-purchased e-ticket” queue on the “North Tower”. I can’t stress enough how important it is to pre-purcase these tickets if you wish to visit and not spend hours waiting. People who hadn’t purchased faced at least a 30min wait to get into the grounds, then an hour wait in the hot sun to buy a ticket, then another 30min – 1 hour wait to get in a lift to go up the tower.

If you don’t pre-purchase a ticket, this is you far-queue.

Our queue was virtually non existent.

Emma and I were both very hungry after wandering the tower for a while, so we grabbed some hotdogs from one of the carts underneath. Yes, these cost a fortune (water, fries and hot dog were €13) however the hot dog was surprisingly good. It wasn’t in the standard sugar laden soft bun, it was in a lovely hollowed out baguette. Sharon of course at this time was having amazing food, and even had a really good coffee.

Once we left, we headed to the station where I was interrupted by a gypsy begger (and I managed to completely avoid). Sharon had a couple bother her on the way to her tour. It wasn’t as bad as it was here in France 2 years ago, and certainly not at bad as it is in Italy where you literally can’t walk down the street without being harassed. There were also none in Poland, however the reasons for that when I think about it is actually very disturbing. There are a few Syrian refugees around the stations with signs asking for money, but not as many as I’d expected I’d see after reading some of the media before getting to Paris.

Once we got back to Saint Lazare station, I had my cold coffee here whilst Emma did some shopping. Kids do grow up fast, just over two years ago it was the Disney Store and stuffed toys that garnered her attention, now it’s clothes, makeup and handbags. And for those things she is in the global shopping Mecca.

later in the night I did a bike tour, again which will get its own blog entry. Sorry about the lack of photos but there is an issue with the internet in the apartment they are trying to fix and uploading a stack of pics just isn’t viable at the moment.

My coffee today was generally a complete fail. I ended up having a cold ice coffee espresso from Starbucks, then a tin of Baileys Iced Coffee Latte. Now, coffee and alcohol is certainly a match made in heaven.

Fraternité Café

Our first full day and first coffees in Paris ! We got into Paris really late last night due to some cancellations and delays with the EuroStar. When we got into Paris we went straight to the hotel and got some sleep. Due to the way Eurostar costs work, a trip in on Saturday morning was way more expensive than getting in late on Friday night. As I’d already booked the apartment to start of Saturday, we just stayed in a hotel close to Gare du Nord station.

Gare do Nord is probably in the shittiest part of central Paris. It has two major train stations right next to each other, Gare du Nord and Gare du Est (North and East station). Something about major rail stations globally, they always seem to be in seedy locations. Not unlike staying right next to Central in Sydney. There are lots of cheap hotels and hostels here, but the one we had was really nice. We were right on the top floor, basically an attic conversion.

After checking out in the late morning we headed across the road to the nearest Boulangerie to get something for breakfast. It was probably the crappiest bakery in the crappiest are of Paris but the croissants were still excellent. I’ve had way worse coffees here in Paris, at least this one was hand made and not just a button push machinejobbie. I’ll give it a 6/10

My bother and sister in law were in Paris this week and we caught up with them before they had to get their train to Brussels for their flight home to Australia.

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Julie and Sharon had a look in Diptyque which is apparently a famous candle shop. I guess selling lumps of nice smelly wax you essentially set on fire for €65 each they would want to be pretty well known and very good. They did have a nice chair for bored husbands to sit on…

Shane and Julie showed us a Boulangerie they discovered which sell the best croissants in Paris, as judged this year. They are only one euro and they are spectacular.

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We had a wander through the Pantheon where you can see tombs of some of the French greats such as Voltaire, Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Émile Zola, Jean Moulin, Louis Braille and Marie Curie, Alexandre Dumas. Quite often not the entire body is kept here. There are urns with hearts and other body parts buried elsewhere. A little odd

 

We had lunch at a little cafe opposite the Luxembourg gardens. I had one of the most delicious club sandwiches I’d ever had. Emma had a gigantic salad and Sharon had a croque monsieur. Shane and Julie shared a sandwich.

 

By this time I had to leave to get the keys to the apartment. It’s not the original one we booked, before we arrived a previous guest had an accident, caused a fire and the apartment was gutted. Maybe they bought one of those €65 candles……

This one was found at short notice. It’s Ok but small. At least it has a lift. Our accomodation last time in Paris was just amazing, unfortunately we will always compare to paris stays to that one.

 

After checking in, I headed back to the hotel we had overnight to pick up our luggage. Even though we decided to travel light the bags seem to have multiplied during the stay in London and navigating the metro with them (plus some of today’s shoe and bag shopping) was going to be difficult so an Uber Van was organised.

Headed out late for dinner, which is where I’m typing up most of this waiting for our meal at a Brasserie on Rue De Rome in the 8th only a few min walk down from our apartment. It’s 9.30pm at night but it’s as light at it in at 6pm in summer at home.

 

Some more pics from today

 

Eurostar or Jetstar ?

Our first bad experience with the Eurostar today. Thankfully we were on the last train out of London and we didn’t get the full Jetstar treatment with our train being cancelled. That happened to one or two earlier today due to some signalling issues on the tracks in France. Luckily we only copped a delayed departure and far-queues from hell trying to get though immigration and into the departure lounge

Love the British and their orderly queuing, a few queue jumpers got caught, publicly shamed and sent to the end of the line.

A few trains departed with out catering. Luckily it’s only 2hrs to Paris. Thankfully even though it took forever to get through our train was only 40 minutes late. I was also somewhat surprised we had a spare seat next to us given the earlier cancelled trains.

The Eurostar people even helped load our luggage. Not long after departure I’m reminded of all the things I love about the Eurostar, comfortable seats with legroom, it’s fast and you get a great view.

At the end of the day, the Eurostar wasn’t Jetstar.

Sharon brought these delicious strawberries to nibble on during the trip. They were perfect, sweet all the way through. At home we sometimes get strawberries with a slightly tart taste, not these ones.

We have finally made it to Paris. We get our apartment tomorrow. For the night we are in this corner room on the 6th floor of a hotel right between Gare Du Nord and Gare Du Est stations. More pics of that tomorrow.

It does have a lift but I love these stairs

Working towards the Globe

Whilst I was at work (and sampling a few coffees) Sharon and Emma were doing a little more sightseeing around London. Their plan had been to check out the Churchill War Rooms (I’ve done this twice already – they are awesome) however the three hour queue for entry killed that idea.

Instead they headed over to the Victoria and Albert museum. Before heading in for a look around the coffee and cake there was sampled, with reports that it was quite good. The cake certainly looks alright !

after a good look around here they had lunch in the grounds of St Paul’s. A truly wonderful spot for lunch on a warm London summer’s day

At 5pm we all headed down to the Globe Theatre for a evening showing of Hamlet. Stopped for some Italian food along the way at Zizzi

Some excellent advice from Josh back at home we got great seats. More info on which seats to pick below

Even if you are not a Shakespeare fan, from a historical perspective its worth a visit. In terms of tickets, for London theatre its reasonably priced, you can get seats for around £30 (way cheaper if you want to stand in the pit in front of the stage, only £5). Whilst the building is a modern construction, its as close to the original as modern safety and fire codes will allow. Its not on it original site where it was in the 16th century, but its very close. The original site is only a few hundred meters away and its worth walking around the corner to look at it.

One of the most interesting facts about the theatre is that its the only building in central London thats allowed to have a thatched roof (they learnt a lot after 1666). Lots more info on it over at good ol’ wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shakespeare%27s_Globe

In my opinion the best value seats are in the lower gallery. There are a handful of cheaper seats (slight view obstruction) but they have no one in front of you so there is stacks of leg room and no on behind you so you can lean up against the wall. Also very close to the exit.

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After Dinner we walked back to the apartment and took some photos. Glorious warm night to be walking along the river

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