Markets and Coffee

This morning we caught the metro down to the Marche Bastille Markets, which are apparently some of the best open markets in Paris. I’d say a good 30-40% of the stalls are the usual dregs and dross you would find at any market, plastic toys, phone cases, t-shirts, fidget spinners, tourist shite etc.

There were some amazing produce stalls though and Sharon was in foodie heaven looking at everything. Meats, seafoods, breads, cakes, spices, produce. You name it, they probably had it.

The one thing conspicuously absent was coffee. At home a place like this would have had lots of coffee vans or stalls.

I found one place that looked promising, however on closer inspection it was just pod coffee dressed up. Coffee was disappointing and not even rateable. My Nespresso is many times better. I did find a second place that was doing espresso shots from all sorts of interesting beans. This was way better than the last one. Emma had a taste and thought it was “festy”. Straight espresso shots are obviously an acquired taste after a few more years…

A line of pod machines. Not worth €2.50

The decent espresso. Not going to bother showing you the other one. This was worth the €1

We had a crepe with Grand Marnier poured over it. This was scrumptious and only cost €2.60. From hot plate to our hands in less than a minute.

We bought some local French salt from a vendor who explained the differences between each salt offered, spices that were added and the region from where it was sourced. He was surprised to have Australians there at the market.

After the markets we headed over to the Centre Georges Pompidou, which is a modern art gallery that has all the workings of the building on the outside, not hidden behind a facade. Essentially the building is inside out. We didn’t go inside to the exhibition but did buy tickets for €5 each to go up to the roof for a fantastic view over Paris as the building is slightly over the height of most others. Interestingly if you are under 25 entry is completely free to the museum.

Lunch was had at a little cafe on the same square, not cheap, but quite good food and relaxing atmosphere under trees on the square. Emma’s lunch included the most delicious vanilla ice cream.

Not far from here is Saint Chapelle with some magnificent stained glass windows. Note though you need to go up a small flight of stairs on the corner to get to the second floor where the magnificent windows are. When I first walked in I was thinking “I paid €30 for this? What a rip off.” Then I went upstairs and the jaw dropped… pictures don’t really do it justice. Each individual glass pane is unique, they each tell a story in pictures from the Old Testament.

After a small break at the Apartment we were back up at Montmartre for some more shopping and then dinner. First time ever I’ve seen a French waiter come back to the table and take out order again as he forgot. Very unusual to see a waiter use pencil and paper here in France. It’s just not de rigueur. Here in Montmartre there is a square that’s closed off from traffic with lots of restaurants and artists drawing portraits. Most of the restaurants here will do a three course meal for €16.50 drinks extra. Wonderful atmosphere on a cool summers evening.

The area we had dinner tonight:-

Remember what I said on my bike share post that the French disrespect the shitty bike share bikes just as much as Australians do ?

Coffee with Shakespeare

Once Sharon & Emma had completed the cooking course and I’d finished my bike ride, we met up at the Shakespeare & Co bookstore. I’m still amazed at the irony that one of the worlds best English language bookstores is right in the middle of the beating heart of the francophone universe. Sharon bought a couple of books…..

I decided to grab my second coffee of the day there. The cafe isn’t too bad, the coffee was certainly good by Paris standards, not quite as good as my first one this morning. In some ways the cafe is just like a Shakespeare play. Long… Hamlet type long. I waited in line so long to order my coffee, I think the King of Denmark actually died whilst I was waiting.

The coffee queue at the cafe attached to the bookstore. Sharon in the queue near the end.

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The coffee was ok, even if ordering it took forever

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Paris Bike Share

When I visited Paris the last two times, I noticed these grey, almost drab looking bikes everywhere. They were part of the Paris Velib bike sharing scheme, run partly by the city. It had proper docking stations that locked the bikes up when not in use. ThisΒ was a major success and copied globally. The London “Boris” bikes are a good example of this.

It was very different to the ghastly share system we ended up with in Australia where companies just left shared bikes all over the city without proper docking stations to store them when not in use. They ended up in people’s way and as a surprise to almost no one in Australia, most of them ended up at the bottom of the harbour. It was mentioned that this must be a fault with Australians, I don’t think so as they also have those terrible share systems here in Paris and most of the bikes I saw were just as trashed as the ones at home.

I was determined to try the proper system here in Paris, however I’ve sinced learned the original much loved system has been replaced with a newer one that’s not been as successful as the original and the Parisians are not happy about it. It’s become a major political issue here. And in a city with a history of revolutions the mayor is getting a little worried….. You can read more about the debacle in the links below.

Link oneΒ Β Link two

None the less I still wanted to try it out so I paid my €5 online for a day pass and started looking for a bike after I’d had my morning coffee. There were a few right near the apartment but I wanted to ride by the river, so looked down that way. I found a bike but then hit a snag getting it unlocked, just as one of the article describes and as it was the only bike left I had to search for another docking area to try another one. A few minutes away I found another place with heaps of bikes, even a rare blue electric one, but alas it had a flat tyre and was thus useless. Another bike was fine, it unlocked ok, and I was off.

Apart from the €5, the first 30min is free, then something like €1 every 30 min after that. I got a text when I’d been using the bike for an hour just reminding me I was paying extra for this. The bike was easy to ride, the brakes worked well and they have three gears you can use. I didn’t take the bike anywhere hilly. I discovered after an hour of riding I’d left my water bottle at the apartment so had to buy one from a bar along the river. €4 for a bottle of water, a bit of idiot tax factored into that…..

The bikes have an inbuilt lock so you can leave them in places temporarily without having to put it back in a docking station.

The share bikes neatly locked up, plus an electric one (a rare sight).

You unlock them buy keying in your account and PIN number on the bike. You can also some how use your metro tap and go card, but that didn’t work for me. This first bike just wouldn’t unlock, so had to find another

An ofo share bike getting the same treatment they do at home.

Paris traffic signals just for bikes. It’s hard to see in this but the light is green

Here is a screenshot of my Strava that shows were I rode

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Vive La CafΓ©. Vive La France!

Finally a coffee in Paris that is worthy of its own coffee report. Strada CafΓ©. Maybe the French win in the World Cup game over Belgium last night has shone a torch of coffee goodness over the city of light, or maybe I just fluked a good discovery. One of the universes little mysteries I guess.

I left Sharon and Emma at La Foodist this morning whilst they undertook a French baking class (which will earn its own post later). I thus had a few hours to wander and do whatever. I had thought of doing another bike tour but decided against it and would try the Paris bike share, which in its own way started a global revolution on bike sharing.

What is it with the French and revolutions ?

Thought I’d wander up to the river, hire a bike and go for a spin in a relative traffic free safe area. On the way started looking for coffee and breakfast. Only 100m from La Foodist I saw this place, it looked ok but given it was the second one I’d seen in a minute I was inclined to keep moving until I saw the evolution of coffee chalked on the window.

This screamed at me : this place knows coffee! And the fact they had the flat white on the board which is an Australian gift to the world, they must know something (Sorry NZ, I know you beg to differ on this one, but the flat white is ours…)

The coffee was a lovely 9/10, and given this is the first near perfect one I’ve ever had in Paris I’ll give it a 9.5 as a bonus. I’m almost sad I have to leave the cafe now as I probably won’t get back to this one before we leave. But you never know.

Check the photo below they even do proper takeaway coffee in cup sizes I’d see at home.

Given the poor state of coffee in the French Republic I was keen to understand how the beacon of coffee par de excellence came to be. The Barista is from Panama, one of the biggest exporters of coffee beans in the world, so you could say he doesn’t just know coffee, he is coffee. It’s pulsating through his veins.

Happily caffeinated moi :-

The Mouse in Paris

Today we did something Emma really wanted to do, which was visit Disneyland Paris, officially Disneyland Parc.

Getting here is actually super easy, just take the A line RER train to the end of the line and that’s right at the entrance to Disneyland. There are two Disney parks here, the bog standard Disney and a Walt Disney Studios Park. We just visited the standard one. The trip on the RER takes about 50min. The train is a similar layout with double decker carriages to Sydney trains. It was air conditioned and very clean. As a bonus the “navigo” cards we got yesterday work all the way here so we didn’t have to purchase tickets.

Leaving the train it’s virtually like we are no longer in Europe. It does feel like the middle of California, the only reminder is that announcements are mostly in French and you pay (exorbitantly) in euros for everything.

In many ways we picked the perfect day, it wasn’t too hot, only got to 24c at the most, and with the France vs Belgium game stacks of people left before 8pm.

We had lots of fun and went on some great rides like Indiana Jones “Temple du Peril”, Starwars, space mountain, big thunder mountain and a lame dodgem car ride. Emma loved them all, although I’ve discovered I can’t handle the dark roller coaster rides like I once could. Where I can see ahead it’s not an issue. I’m writing most of this over dinner hotdogs and fries….. (aaarg, the irony of being in the global food capital and eating hotdogs again….). Finishing it off on the ride back to Paris on the train (Good way to pass the 50 minute ride)

Emma now loves rides and was happy to go on as many as she could, a massive change from a few years ago when it was impossible to coax her into a roller coaster. She even mentioned she didn’t want to go home and was sad the day was ending. A successful family day out.

We got a few fast passes which cut down wait times from about an hour to 15 minutes. You can only hold one fast pass at a time, and most of the passes closed operation at 2pm as they had all been allocated for the day. Disney have this really thought out, what do you do when you hold a fast pass and just need to wait (But not in the actual line) ? You visit the stores and buy things!!

The highlight of the day is the light and firework display. It was fantastic. My hot tip for Disney ? Everyone goes to watch the main street parade. Sometimes it can be good, more than often it’s super lame. Use this 1 hour window when people start heading to the centre of the park for the show to get some rides in with smaller queues.

We positioned ourselves as near the park exit as we could so we could bolt to the train as soon as it was over. We missed one by seconds and had to wait 15 min for the next one. I was a little stressed that we would not get on the train with the throng of people, but it was actually fine. We got seats easily and out carriage was mostly empty. It would seem most people either drove, left early, caught busses or stayed in the hotel.

Having the “Navigo” (Paris oyster/opal card) paid dividends too, we just cruised past the people trying to buy paper tickets then stick them into the turnstiles. They have limited turnstiles that take tickets, all of them take the tap and go pass.

I’ve now been to Disney parks 7 times and weather wise this one was perfect. Past times have either been extremely hot (USA – Florida) or extremely cold (Disney Sea – Tokyo). Emma has been to 4 Disney parks herself. Not bad for a 14year old ! As far as transport goes it was also the easiest, even easier than the train in Tokyo for Disney which until now I had thought was the best. Sorry America, but the French have whipped your ass when it comes to organising transport to theme parks.

As for the Coffee? Two words, frickin disgusting. Machine made and I suspect powdered milk. Avoid avoid avoid

Is it worth coming here ? If you love Disney, don’t mind taking a day away from your Europe holiday to do an American thing, Pay a few hundred Euros to stand in queues all day and then pay the same on merchandise and food, then you will totally love it πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚ πŸ‡ΊπŸ‡Έ

Shit-Haus Coffee :-

Nice trains :-